Boat winterisation and spring service checklist for northern Adriatic owners

At haul-out

Wash the hull before growth dries and hardens. Inspect anodes, through-hulls and the propeller while the boat is still on the slings and everything is easy to reach.

• Pressure wash the hull and check for impact damage
• Replace sacrificial anodes below 50% remaining
• Deflate tubes slightly and clean with a pH-neutral marine cleaner
• Drain the water system fully or add potable antifreeze
• Remove electronics, cushions and safety gear to dry storage

Electric drives and lithium batteries

Lithium packs prefer a partial charge in storage. Leave them at roughly 50–60% state of charge in a dry space above freezing, and top up every few months rather than leaving them on a charger permanently.

Rinse the motor leg with fresh water, check the propeller for line damage and store the drive upright.

Before launch

Reverse the checklist and add the paperwork: insurance renewal, registration validity and flares within date. Then run the engine on the hose and test steering, bilge pump and navigation lights before the boat leaves the yard.

• Inflate tubes to the manufacturer's pressure at working temperature
• Check steering, throttle and kill-cord operation
• Test bilge pump, navigation lights and VHF
• Confirm insurance, registration and flare expiry dates

Frequently asked questions

Should I leave lithium batteries on charge over winter?

No. Store them at around 50–60% charge in a dry place above freezing and top them up every few months. Permanent float charging shortens pack life.

How often should RIB tubes be replaced?

PVC tubes typically last 5–10 years and Hypalon 15 years or more, heavily influenced by UV exposure and whether the boat is covered when not in use.